CUBA

With just 4 weeks left on our Panama adventure and a date of July 1st to return to the USA, I decided to take the plunge and schedule a trip to Cuba!  I've always wanted to visit Cuba and experience its vibrant culture and knew that entering the country from Panama would be far easier, as opposed entering from the United States.  In addition, I liked the idea of traveling on my own and creating a flexible itinerary, as opposed to traveling with a pre-arranged tour group from the United States.

It was quite an adventure, and I ended up staying 3 nights in Habana and 3 nights in Trinidad, and in both locations had the opportunity to stay in casas particulares (with Cuban families).  Cuba is a fascinating and beautiful country, unlike any I have ever been to, and the trip was a huge success.  Cubans are friendly and outgoing, and their vibrant culture is shown in their eclectic and colorful colonial buildings and architecture, art, food, and of course, in their music for which they are so well-known.

The trip was a once-in-a-lifetime experience and a great opportunity to learn more about Cuban's extensive political history and what it is like today.  Given President Obama's recent negotiations with Raul Castro and Obama's decision to lift the embargo in the near future, I felt even more compelled to visit at this time.  After having spent time in Cuba during such an interesting point in history, I am certain that there will be many changes and look forward to seeing what transpires for Cuba and its wonderful people in the years to come...

Welcome to Havana!

Havana's busy street life

I traveled on my own the entire time I was in Cuba and loved being able to wander the streets at my own pace, taking it all in.  The one exception was a one-day tour I arranged for my first day in Habana.  A fabulous guide, Fernando, showed me all of the wonderful sights of Habana, and we had the pleasure of riding in style in this bright green old American Classic car.

This is the house (casa particular) I stayed in, located in the neighborhood of Vedado and adjacent to Habana's Malecón, during my 3 nights in Habana.  I chose to stay with a Cuban family in a casa particular, as opposed to staying at a hotel.  A casa particular is less expensive, very comfortable, and staying with a Cuban family proved to be a great opportunity to learn more about Cuban lifestyle and culture.  This appeared to be one of the nicer homes (dated in the early 1900's) in the Vedado area, and the interior was elaborately decorated with beautiful furniture, artwork, and even frescoes on the ceiling of its formal living room.  

A view of Habana from the Malecón.

Fisherman are seen on Habana's Malecón at all hours of the day.

I arrived in Habana in the late afternoon, got situated in my casa particular, headed to the Malecón for a brief walk and to check out the scenery, and ended up flagging down a cab to take me to a restaurant for dinner.  This was the first cab and driver I saw.  The old white and red early model American Classic car  pulled over on the side of the road, I opened the door, and met Pedro.  He gave me a warm welcome to Cuba, all while smoking his Cuban cigar, and as we chatted and I checked out the fancy gold, white, and red interior of his vehicle, I chuckled inside.  Cuba is so fascinating and unlike any other country I've been to.  As it turns out, I later spent many hours with Pedro (in his very cool car!), since I ended up hiring him to drive me to Trinidad and back, about a 5 1/2 to 6 hour drive each way.  

Cubans are known for their drinks, especially their mojitos.

Cuban food is delicious, with wonderful flavors.  The pulpo (octopus) I had my first evening was probably the best meal I had during my entire trip.

La Catedral de San Cristóbal de la Habana

Habana's architecture is so interesting, especially that of Habana Vieja, and I loved wandering the streets, admiring all of the old buildings. 

Habana Vieja

Many buildings in Habana Vieja have been beautifully restored, and all of Habana seems to be an eclectic mix of both new and old.

Habana Vieja has many wonderful plazas, all with interesting architecture.

Fabulous Cuban music in the Habana Vieja area.

An elderly Cuban woman (with her cigar of course!) in Habana.

This beautiful peacock was seen in the courtyard of one of Habana's colonial buildings.

Many of Habana's colonial buildings boast colorful and unique windows.  I enjoyed exploring the city, admiring them all...

Fortaleza de San Carlos with Habana in the background.

Fortaleza de San Carlos was built in the 18th century and is the largest Spanish colonial fortress in the Americas.

Image of Che Guevara in Plaza de la Revolución, with the slogan "Hasta la Victoria Siempre" (Until the Victory, Always).

The plaza was initially called Plaza Cívica, and after the Cuban Revolution in 1959, its name was changed to Plaza de la Revolución.

Image of Camilo Cienfuegos in Plaza de la Revolución.

During one of Fidel's speeches, Fidel turned to Camilo and asked, "Voy bien Camilo?" ("Am I doing OK Camilo?", at which time Camilo answered, "Vas bien Fidel" ("You're doing well, Fidel").

Hotel Nacional in Habana

A typical Cuban woman hanging out in one of Habana Vieja's plazas

The busy streets of Habana, with the Capitolio Nacional in the background.

American Classic cars are seen throughout Cuba, in various models and colors...

Political slogans and murals are seen throughout Cuba.

On the left, Fidel refers to Hugo Chávez (former President of Venezuela) as "El mejor amigo de Cuba" ("Cuba's best friend"), and on the right, the image of Che Guevara is depicted with the slogan "vives" ("lives").

Fidel and Raúl Castro (left), The Revolution (middle), and the July 26th Movement (right) in which Fidel Castro lead the overthrow of the Fulgencio Batista dictatorship in Cuba, are all frequently seen on billboards and murals.

Everyday life in Habana

I saw these beautiful trees with red flowers throughout Habana.  This image with the palm tree in the background captured my attention, and palm trees and colorful flowers seem to add a tropical flair to Habana's colonial architecture.    

I step outside my casa particular in Habana, and this bright green beauty is parked outside the front gate.

An Agropecuario (fruit and vegetable market) in Habana

Flowers being sold on the streets of Habana

Local transportation in Habana

 Afro-Cuban music being played at Callejón de Hamel in Habana, an area well-known for its artistic murals.

I met these two friendly women selling brooms while I was strolling the streets of Habana.

Some of Habana's streets and colonial buildings have been refurbished, and others, such as this one, have not.  Lots of construction going on along this street...

A typical scene in Habana

Throughout the streets of Habana, clothes are hung from balconies, adding more vibrant colors to Cuba's already multicolored buildings.

More everyday life in Habana...

I had to take a picture of these 3 Cuban men chatting it up while drinking a bottle of rum.  Who's driving this taxi? 

During my travels, several Cubans told me that this beautiful modern building along Habana's Malecón has already been identified as the future US Embassy in Habana.  

Driving down Habana's Malecón, on the way to the city center.

Colon Cemetery in Habana

Off to Trinidad...

Pedro picks me up at my casa particular in Vedado, Habana for our 6-hour drive to Trinidad.

I truly felt like I got the "Cuban experience" driving with Pedro and loved the fancy gold, white, and red interior of his American Classic car, which thankfully held up during our long drive to Trinidad and then back to Habana.

Pedro brought Diana, a friend of his, who not only accompanied us during our drive to Trinidad but also rode with us from Trinidad back to Cuba.  It was such a pleasure to chat and spend time with both of them, and I enjoyed learning about life in Cuba from their perspective. 

The interior of Pedro's taxi

Beautiful countryside, very few cars, and just a smattering of small homes on the drive between Habana and Trinidad

We made a quick stop for lunch in Cienfuegos and admired the main plaza, Plaza José Martí.

Plaza José Martí in Cienfuegos

Cienfuegos

Cuba's southern coastline

We came across this colorful old American Classic just as we entered Trinidad.

Plaza Mayor, Trinidad's picturesque palm-studded plaza

Trinidad is truly a one-of-a-kind colonial gem and not much has changed since 1850.  This quaint cobble-stoned city, which has more of a small-town feel to it, was declared a national monument in 1965 and later a World Heritage Site by Unesco in 1988.

Iglesia Parroquial de la Santísima Trinidad in Trinidad's Plaza Mayor

A view of the former Convent of San Francisco de Asís bell tower from Plaza Mayor

Another view of Trinidad's Plaza Mayor

I was fortunate to have stayed in this house (casa particular), adjacent to Trinidad's Plaza Mayor.  The home itself, built in 1802,  is referred to as the Casa del Historiador (The Historian's House), since it is one of Trinidad's oldest and most characteristic buildings in Trinidad and was owned by one of Trinidad's former historians who was influential in helping preserve the town.

A side view of Casa del Historiador on the right with a view of the bell tower in the background

During my stay in Trinidad I saw several of these interesting lizards whose tails immediately curl up each time they move.  Each day there were several (such as this one) that would enter the house under the front door.

Upon my arrival in Trinidad in the late afternoon, I climbed the bell tower of the former Convent of San Francisco de Asís and was able to enjoy this spectacular view of Trinidad, with the Caribbean Sea in the distance.

Old American Classic cars are seen throughout Trinidad, although most people walk or ride bicycles as their primary form of transportation.

These two Cuban characters hung out on Trinidad's steps smoking cigars all day long, greeting all who passed by...

Trinidad's Museo Histórico Municipal is housed in the beautiful neoclassical Palacio Cantero, built in the early 1800's.  

A beautiful view from the top of the tower at the Museo Histórico Municipal

A beautiful view of Plaza Mayor's iglesia from the tower at the Museo Histórico Municipal

A typical Cuban scene: an elderly gentleman walking Trinidad's cobbled streets with brightly colored buildings, shoes hanging over his shoulder, a weaved bag in hand (and if you look closely, you'll see his Cuban cigar as well), and a dog in tow.  

Guardian of Trinidad's Casa Templo de Santería Yemayá

Santería Altar to Yemayá, Goddess of the Sea

While the majority of Cubans consider themselves Catholic, many other religions are represented in this county, and Santería (Cuba's main religion of African origin) is one of them.

Playing dominos in Trinidad

Local street life in Trinidad, always with music...

Musicians playing at one of Trinidad's most popular music venues, Casa de la Trova

Trinidad is known for its colonial architecture and brightly colored buildings.  I spent hours walking the streets, admiring the beautiful and interesting doors and windows.

Small fruit and vegetable stands (on wheels) are seen throughout Trinidad, and locals stop by to purchase what they need.  

I had just eaten lunch at a local Cuban restaurant and had my leftovers packed up to go, and came across this woman on my walk back home.  We got to chatting, and I asked if she was hungry and wanted some food.  She quickly answered, "Sí" and was thrilled to receive my offerings.

The Three Crosses in one of Trinidad's most colorful neighborhoods.

I spent the afternoons walking some of the less touristy areas of Trinidad and loved observing local Cuban life in action.  I couldn't help but take a photo of this man (shirtless) hauling his giant pig down the street.  WOW!

These kids approached me and asked me, over and over again, to take their photo.  After taking each picture, I showed them the image.  To this day, the far majority of Cubans do not have internet access, nor do they exchange emails.  I only wish that I could have printed out their photos or sent them an image via email, so that they too could have one for themselves...

A local store in Trinidad where basic food items are sold.  

A lot goes on in the streets of Trinidad.  Families hang out, kids play in the street, many gather on porches, some play music, and others sit and play games.  These friendly young women invited me to play dominos with them - so much fun!  

Cubas colors (buildings, clothing...etc.) are bright and beautiful.

Brightly colored homes along this Trinidad street.

More colorful buildings and a cobbled street with the bell tower in the background

I started out taking a photo of 2 of these cute kids and sure enough, within seconds, others came running out of nowhere, begging to join in.   

Horse-drawn carts are still used in Trinidad.

As I walked some of the neighborhoods of Trinidad, Cubans would occasionally ask me for soap, shampoo, and some even requested old clothing that I might not need after I left Cuba.  Cubans seemed to understand that these items are readily available to most tourists.  One of my biggest disappointments is that I did not have the forethought to bring some of these items for the Cuban people, as it would have been so easy for me to gather up small bottles of shampoo and bars of soap, as well as used clothing that no longer fits Monica and Matt.  Nonetheless, I took the limited bars of soap and small bottles of shampoo and body lotions I had on hand (and even parted with a bathing suit as well), and before leaving Trinidad, walked back to some of the homes where people had asked for specific items and gave them what I could.  The little girl in this photo energetically yelled out with a big smile other face, "Jabon, jabon!" when she saw me, as she knew I had retuned with the soap that had been requested.  

These two girls received fragrant body wash and lotion.  They were quite happy!  The girl on the left is sewing a tablecloth, one of the many beautiful handmade souvenirs that are typical of Trinidad.

This guy, sitting on a street corner with several other men, insisted that I take his photo and purposefully placed  his chicken on top of his head.  Certainly not a sight you see everyday...

Playa Ancon is a short 15-minute drive from Trinidad.  While it may not compare to many of Cuba's other beaches, Ancon is known as the best beach on Cuba's southern coast.  I spent a morning relaxing on the beach, and while the day was a bit overcast, it was a fun opportunity to see one of Cuba's beaches.

Play Ancon

Ghost Crab

Playa Ancon

Playa Ancon

Great music during a late lunch on my last day in Trinidad

Cuba is known throughout the world for its music.  During my Cuba adventure I went to a couple of music venues in Habana and listened to some fabulous salsa bands.  While in Trinidad, the music scene was exceptional as well, especially given that it is a fairly small town.  At any time, day or night, one could hear music being played somewhere.  In the evenings I went to the local "Casa de la Musica" to listen to and dance salsa, and during the daytime, I'd just follow my ears and head to where the music was playing.  

It's my last day in Trinidad and I'm taking a late afternoon stroll.  I head to where the music is playing and enter a large courtyard where a  group of Cubans are playing rumba, one of the types of music for which Cuba is so well-known.  All were friendly and indicated that I was welcome to listen and sit in on their practice - a fun way to end my last afternoon in Trinidad!

I have to admit that I experienced a certain sense of thrill entering Cuba from Panama and traveling on my own.  Since the embargo on Cuba has still not been lifted, US citizens traveling from the United States are limited in their ability to travel to Cuba, and certain requirements and permits are required (none of which I had).  My US passport was never stamped in Cuba (only my tourist card was stamped), and my passport does not show that I ever entered or left the country.  This picture of my Cuban Tourist Card is proof that I was actually there...