PERU - CUSCO AND MACHU PICCHU

We have continued our South American travels and just finished visiting Cusco and Machu Picchu.
After having spent a week in the northern part of Peru in the Amazon jungle, it was a nice change to head to the southern area of Peru.  The climate, people, language, foods, culture...etc. were so different from one another that it felt like we were in a different county altogether.

During our 3 nights and 2 days in Cusco we strolled around the city's many cobblestone streets, admired the colonial ambiance and architecture, sampled the local food, visited the ChocoMuseo (chocolate museum), and I even had a chance to visit Mercado de San Pedro and El Centro de Textiles Tradicionales del Cusco (a local women's weaving cooperative and museum).  Cusco sits at 11,200 feet, and it took us a day or two to adjust to the altitude.  Our hotel offered both mate de coca (coca tea) and oxygen to help one acclimatize.  We drank a lot of tea while there, and Monica and Matt each got a few oxygen treatments.  I'm not sure whether they really needed them, or if they just loved the experience of putting on the mask and receiving the oxygen?

Our most surprising event in Cusco was having to be evacuated from our hotel our very first morning because the hotel caught on fire.  Unfortunately, there was a fire started in the restaurant next door, and it ended up burning part of the roof of our hotel, creating a vast amount of smoke throughout the hotel.  It was an experience we will never forget, being summoned by the hotel staff in the early morning and quickly leaving the building (without our belongings) as smoke started to fill the rooms of the hotel.  Fortunately, no one was hurt, we ended up being transferred to another hotel for the remainder of our stay, and the event did not end up having a significant impact on our travel plans.  We just chalked it up as another one of our wild adventures...!

We took a day traveling from Cusco to Aguas Calientes, and spent time in the Sacred Valley, visiting the Pisac Ruins, Pisac Market, and the Ollantaytambo Ruins.  The scenery was beautiful and it was nice to see this area of Peru.  We then took the Vistadome train, from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes in preparation for our Machu Picchu hike.  The 2 1/2 hour train ride along the Urubamba River was fabulous, and we enjoyed watching the vegetation change as we descended into the cloud forest of Aguas Calientes.  This was Monica's very first train ride, and she loved it!

Machu Picchu, Peru's 15th-century Inca site located at 7,970 feet above sea level, was quite impressive, especially after having visited the smaller ruins of Pisac and Ollantaytambo the day before.  We had a great experience, and are glad that we made the effort to see this incredible archaeological site.

After our long day at Machu Picchu, we took the Vistadome train back to Cusco, spent one last night, before we flew to Colombia, our next and final destination in our 3-week South American adventure.

La Catedral in Cusco

Many women in Cusco weave their textiles and wear a traditional brown hat, as can be seen in this photo.

Beautiful churches and architecture in Cusco's Plaza de Armas

A view of Cusco and Plaza de Armas

Cuy (guinea pig) is one of Peru's traditional foods and many Peruvian's grew up eating it.  In recent years, it has become very expensive, unfortunately making it less available.  In Cusco, it is roasted in the oven and has a thick crunchy outer skin.  While there is not a whole lot of meat to be eaten, it can be quite delicious.  I personally prefer chicken or turkey over cuy, but had to try it while in Cusco.

These women from Chinchero, a village less than an hour away from Cusco, are wearing their brightly colored traditional clothing.

This young girl is weaving a scarf (by hand) in the Centro de Textiles Tradicionales de Cusco.  She lives in one of the small towns in the Sacred Valley.

This young girl is weaving (using a loom) in the Centro de Textiles Tradicionales de Cusco.  She also is making some type of garment to keep warm, and lives in one of the small towns in the Sacred Valley.

Monica and Matt are very excited to hold the lambs in Cusco!

Cusco's main market, Mercado Central de San Pedro, is located in a giant warehouse in the city.  Everything from fruits, vegetables, meats, grains, prepared foods, and textiles are sold here.  

Various types of corn (maiz), grains (quinoa), and spices are all sold in the market.  Cusco's food is delicious, and it we enjoyed sampling several new dishes.

We saw this Peruvian man with his animals.  The first two on the left are alpacas, and three on the right are llamas.  Many of the highest quality textiles in Peru are made of soft alpaca wool.

A gorgeous view of the Sacred Valley, with Rio Urubamba running through the middle

On our visit to the Sacred Valley we explored the ancient Pisac Ruins of the Incas. 

Monica and Matt at the Pisac Ruins

Beautiful Peruvian textiles are displayed and sold at the market in Pisac

Hand-woven Peruvian tapestries in bright colors are sold at the Pisac market

A women in Ollantaytambo, the Sacred Valley

The train ride through the Sacred Valley, from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes, was gorgeous as we rode along the Urubamba River.

Some of the rapids on the Urubamba River were huge as we approached Aguas Calientes.

Aguas Calientes (AKA Machu Picchu town) is a quaint, but very touristy town situated on the raging Urubamba  River.  Everyone is here for the same reason, to visit Machu Picchu.  The landscape is lush and green, and the surrounding cloud-covered mountains are quite stunning.

While in Aguas Calientes, we stayed in a hotel with a lush and tropical setting.  Monica and Matt enjoyed a walk through one of the many beautiful paths along the Urubamba River.

These beautiful red flowers were seen throughout the hotel property.

Beautiful Cloud Forest Flower

Greg and I enjoyed watching the many hummingbirds.  These red-breasted beauties were amazing!

After an early morning breakfast, we took the bus ride from Aguas Calientes up to Machu Picchu.  The scenery along the bus ride itself was pretty spectacular, as we climbed the cloud-covered mountain, with the Urubamba River below.  

Machu Picchu had a magical feel to it, with the clouds rolling in and out as we explored the Inca ruins.

A View of Machu Picchu

Monica and Matt wear their alpaca domes and enjoy the view.  Matt makes a point of bringing a small notebook and draws pictures of the Machu Picchu ruins - so cute!

One of Monica's and Matt's favorite parts of our Machu Picchu visit was feeding the llamas.

A great view of Huayna Picchu, a massive peek (8,920 feet above sea level) that sits above Machu Picchu.  

Matt and Monica play a game of "Inca" chess on the Vistadome train ride after our long day visiting Machu Picchu.  A great way to end a very cool experience!

PERU - DEEP IN THE AMAZON JUNGLE

We just completed 7 wild and adventure-packed days in the Amazon of northern Peru.  We started off our travels by flying from David to Panama City, then Panama City to Iquitos, Peru's port city and gateway to the Amazon.  We entered the Amazon by taking a 4-hour boat ride from Iquitos, traveling on the Rio Amazonas and Rio Tahuayo.  Our jungle experience included 2 nights at the Amazonas Research Center and 4 nights at the Tahuayo Lodge.

During our entire stay we were fortunate to have Christian as our guide and Claudio as our boat driver.  Both are Amazonian natives, and their knowledge and enthusiasm made the trip.

Flying over the Peruvian Amazon

DAY 1
On our first day we discovered a fabulous outdoor market across the street from our hotel in Iquitos and made a quick stop.  It was so fun to see the different products (fruits, vegetables, spices, fish...etc.) and notice how many were different from those we are accustomed to seeing in Panama.  We took a 4-hour boat ride on the Rio Amazonas, then the Rio Tahuayo before we finally arrived at the Amazonas Research Center (ARC).  The boat ride to the Research Center was scenic, and the time flew by quickly as we passed various small villages along our way.   The setting of the Amazonas Research Center (ARC) was beautiful, and we got the full jungle experience with solar-powered electricity, rustic and simple wooden thatched roofed cabins, and shared communal bathrooms.  Later that afternoon we saw 2 sloths, macaws, and some bats - a great start to our adventure!  In the evening, our guide invited us on a night walk, so we all put on our knee-length rubber boots and headlamps and headed on out.  Within steps of the Research Center we saw a baby electric eel (first spotted by Matt), a pink toe tarantula spider, a monkey spider, lots of bats, a turnip gecko, a giant monkey frog, and a spotted water snake that changes colors - pretty impressive for our first evening walk! 

Iquitos is a busy and interesting port city.  There are no roads that lead to Iquitos, and the only way to get there is by airplane or by traveling by boat along the Amazon River.  Motocarros (as seen above) are used as the means of transportation within the city.

Open-air market across the street from our hotel

Camu Camu fruit is found on bushes throughout the Amazon.  During our trip, we often observed families in their dugout canoes picking the fruits to be brought and sold in Iquitos.  The small fruits have many uses, but usually are made into a popular beverage.

Selling Fish at the Market

This is one giant basket of fish (some live) being sold at the market.

A small village along the Rio Tahuayo

The Amazonas Research Center (ARC)

This is the view from the deck of our room at the Research Center.

Beautiful Flower

Greg and Matt enjoy a boat ride through the jungle.

A three-toed sloth (oso perezoso)

Bats that blend into the bark of the tree

An electric eel (spotted by Matt)

Giant Tree Frog

This is a giant monkey frog!

Monkey Spider

Turnip Gecko

This spotted water snake changes colors as it moves - so interesting!

DAY 2
In the early morning, Matt and Greg left the Research Center to do a little fishing, and Matt was happy to catch a vampire fish and a catfish.  During the trip they saw a group of about 20 or more squirrel monkeys, launching themselves from one side of the river to the other.  It's not uncommon to see groups this size or even larger, as this type of monkey tends to travel in large groups of 30 or more.  They also saw brown capuchin monkeys.

During our afternoon boat trip we saw a toucan, and the highlight was the sighting of several titi monkeys and pigmy monkeys.  We all loved seeing the pygmy marmoset monkeys (leoncitos), which were only about 8 inches long. 

Catfish

We heard and spotted several parrots, such as this one, throughout the Amazon.

This pygmy marmoset monkey was only about 8 inches long.  None of us had ever seen one before, so we were pretty excited to spot a few of these cute guys.

Monica and Matt at the Amazonas Research Center

Our guide, Christian, leads us though the jungle in the late afternoon.  The lighting is spectacular, and the reflection of the light and trees on the water is serene.  We loved leisurely putting along as we searched for wildlife.

DAY 3
Greg and I started the day off with an early morning hike from the Research Center, and our jungle pros, Christian and Claudio joined us. It proved to be quite an adventure, walking through dense muddy jungle in our knee-high rubber boots.  At one point, my boots sank so for down that they were completely filled with the muddied water.  This hike was definitely not for the squeamish, and once my boots were filled with the jungle muck, it immediately occurred to me that there was a high likelihood that there were live organisms moving about in my boots. Yuck!   During our nature walk we spotted one of the largest bullet ants I've ever seen, as well as two different species of tamarin monkeys (saddleback tamarins and white mustache tamarins).  During our Amazon stay we saw multiple blue morpho butterflies, and walking back to the Research Center I saw the largest and most brilliant one I've ever seen in my life - it truly glowed!

Later after breakfast when we had just settled into some hammocks, our guide, Christian, found us and announced that some other guests at the Research Center found an Emerald Tree Boa earlier in the morning.  Christian wanted to know if we wanted to try to find it.  Of course, we jumped at the opportunity and off we went went in our motorized canoe...!  On our way we observed several squirrel monkeys, and about an hour later, high up in the trees, our amazing guide Christian, spotted the Emerald Tree Boa, the one we had been searching for.  What a treat!

Later this day we took a 1 1/2 boat ride to the Tahuayo Lodge where we would spend the next 4 night.  We were put in one of the family rooms, a large thatched roofed structure, set apart from most of the others, with it's own bathroom (toilet and shower) and our very own jug of purified water.  After being at the Research Center and using the communal bathrooms, Monica and Matt took a look at our accommodations at the lodge and thought they were in heaven!  Our new digs, although simple and rustic, felt luxurious in the Amazon!

During our afternoon excursion we saw pink dolphins and swam in the Tahuayo River.  Unfortunately, our motorized canoe started having engine troubles upon our return, and we were only able to move at a snail's space.  Our guide, Christian, explained that this was quite a predicament, being that the sun would go down, our return ride could potentially take several hours, and we had no way of communicating with the Tahyuayo Lodge because there is no phone service.  Since most people in the Amazon travel by a non-motorized canoe, any others who encountered us would be unable to help.  Interestingly, when we first arrived in the Amazon, Christopher suggested that we each bring flashlights or headlamps for our afternoon excursions, just in case things got delayed and we needed to head back in the evening.  It just happened to be that on this particular afternoon, not only did every Stoney family member fail to bring his/her flashlight, but Christian didn't bring his either  - oops!  Claudio brought a small one, which wasn't all that effective.  Well, after a couple of hours luck was on our side, and a local Peruvian in a motorized canoe agreed to tow us, and less than an hour later another boat from the Tahuayo Lodge came to rescue us!  This experience certainly gave me a better awareness of the remoteness of this area, as well as the unique challenges that face the neighboring communities and villages when it comes to communication and transportation.  

Greg and Christina trudge through the watery mud on our early morning hike.  Jungle boots are an absolute necessity, and not once did we ever leave without them!

Tahuayo Lodge

We walk along to the end of this bridge to reach our fabulous family cabin awaiting us!

Our family cabin at Tahuayo Lodge

These beautiful caciques were seen at both the Amazonas Research Center and Tahuayo Lodge.  

The caciques had a colony and built nests in the trees.  We spent hours watching them go in and out of their nests and fly from one tree to another.

Monica and Matt take a swim in the Tahuayo River.

The late afternoon boat rides were magical, and the jungle's reflection on the water was mesmerizing.

Our guide, Christian, enjoyed a late afternoon boat ride.

DAY 4
In the morning our family hiked through the jungle and went zip lining - yippee!  Prior to this, Monica and Matt already had some pretty incredible zipping experiences in Ecuador, Panama, and Nicaragua.  Although this zip line near the Tahuayo Lodge is very small in comparison, it was still a lot of fun, and it was wonderful to look down upon the Amazon canopy.  While up in the canopy, we spotted a Paradise Tanager, one of the most beautiful birds we saw our entire time in the jungle.

In the afternoon we attempted to go to a lake via motorized canoe, and after one of the guides spent over a 1/2  hour using a machete to pave the way for us to get there through the brush, we gave up and spent the next 1/2 hour making our way back to the open river, once again, the guide chopping away with his machete.  Another crazy jungle experience for the Stoney family...!

A fabulous view of the Amazon canopy

Looking down onto the wet and muddy jungle as we are being hoisted up in preparation for the zip line.

The Stoney Family goes zip lining in the Amazon!

Our fabulous guide, Christian, always has a smile on his face.

Beautiful Reflections

DAY 5
Greg and Matt went fishing for piranhas in the early morning and upon their return, Matt announced, "I caught 50 piranha!"  Well, he didn't catch that many, but Greg did confirm that he caught a ton and that for a while, it seemed like they were just "flying over the rail, right and left".  Fishing sure can be fun when you are catching!  In all, they caught 3 different species of piranha, several catfish, and Greg caught a bicuda.  During this trip, they were also fortunate to see brown capuchin monkeys and both grey and pink river dolphins.  

While the guys were off fishing, Monica and I took a basket weaving class from Dalila, a local woman  from the nearby community of El Chino.

Later that afternoon Matt and I went to El Chino community to learn more about the village, and Matt had the good fortune of being able to locate Dalila, who showed him how to weave his own basket.  He was also thrilled to purchase pirahna teeth from Dalila - could there be a better souvenir?!  

After dinner, I opted to go on a night walk with our guide, and speared my first fish, saw 2 pink toe tarantulas, and a rainbow boa.  Finding the boa, despite all of the night insects that swarmed my body and bit through my clothes, made it all worth it.

Matt loved catching piranha!

Another piranha caught by Matt.  Could there be a better Amazon activity for this guy?!

This pink-toe tarantula was at least 5 inches in diameter.

This is one large ugly beetle.

Veil Mushroom

Christina spotted this rainbow boa during her night walk - pretty cool!

DAY 6
We went on an all-day excursion to Terra Firme, a forest that never floods.  After taking a 2-hour boat ride to get there, we hiked around the area for another 1 1/2 to 2 hours searching for dart frogs for which the area is well known.  We had been warned to load up on insect repellant, and we were sure glad we did.  It was hot, humid, and the bugs were swarming.  We ended up spotting 3 different types of poison dart frogs, all of which have fascinating markings and are extraordinarily beautiful.  A highlight of the day was Matt putting his hand into a termite nest (which was encouraged by our guide) and then eating the termites.  Yes, termites do not bite or sting and they are edible (quite tasty according to Matt!).   During our hike, Matt trudged through a muddy giant hollowed-out tree trunk and observed several vampire bats flying around, then proceeded to get his rubber boots so deep in the sloshy mud that they got stuck, and he eventually toppled over, resulting in a very muddy mess.  Not to worry, as most of you know, Matt could care less about being dirty, and for him, this was all part of the fun.  After a few short minutes, Matt realized that he smelled pretty badly; there was a lot of bat poop in that mud!  We dunked Matt in a nearby stream to wash him off - good as new!  On the boat ride back to the lodge we stopped alongside the river and had the opportunity to not only see, but also feed fruits to three different woolly monkeys - a fun way to end the day!

Later this evening, Matt decided to join our guide, Christian, and try his hand at spear fishing along the shore and muddy swamp of the Tahuayo Lodge.  While he didn't have any luck spearing a fish, the wildlife sightings were off the chart.  Matt was pleased to announce that he saw several spotted water snakes, an electric eel, a coral snake, and a giant toad - super fun!

Matt not only put his hand into this nest of termites, but ate them as well.  He even went back for seconds and thirds.  According to Matt, they were crunchy and delicious!  The Amazonian natives eat terminates because they are a natural insect repellent - interesting!

Matt balances on a moss-covered tree trunk as he forges through the jungle.

This poison dart frog had white and bright red markings on its belly.

Poison Dart Frog

This giant butterfly glistened in the wet jungle.

Matt steps into the giant hollowed-out log, alone, walking from one end to another, as vampire bats fly around him.  This kid is brave!

DAY 7
We started our day with an early morning, paddling traditional hand-carved Amazonian canoes around Tabano Lake in search for caimans.  The lake doesn't really resemble a lake at all, but rather a body of water with trees and other jungle foliage within it, making it only possible to navigate by chopping your way through with a machete, cutting away branches in order to create a narrow pathway for the canoe - very fun!  Our guide, Christian, even showed us how he carves his own canoe paddle using his machete.  It was a great experience with beautiful scenery, and although we never did find a caiman, we spotted a hoatzin, a beautiful bird we had been waiting to see all week.  Our time on the lake ended with lobos del rio (river otters) coming to visit us.  The experience was truly amazing and a special treat, as seeing the river otters is definitely not an everyday occurrence.  Christian initially heard the otters' distant calls and skillfully brought the otters to us by making his own calls mimicking a baby otter in distress.  As Christian made his calls, the group of otters (about 8-10) gradually came closer, all the while answering Christian's calls and becoming louder and louder.  

Paddling in dugout canoes in Tabano Lake, searching for caimans.

Monica pulls out the binoculars to look for wildlife as we paddle through Tabano Lake.

Our guide, Christian, paddles through the water lettuce on Tabano Lake.

One of the guides made this jungle crown, and Matt was so happy to wear it while watching our guide, Christian, carve his wooden canoe paddle with his machete.

THE AMAZON EXPERIENCE
As can be expected when spending time in the Amazon, we endured somewhat rustic (but very clean) accommodations, plenty of insect bites, and were left with a bundle of damp and smelly clothes that needed a serious wash.  We considered ourselves fairly unscathed, and no snake bites for us!  After being in the Amazon for a full week, I think we were all ready for a little break, and a hot shower and clean clothes sounded pretty incredible.  It was all worth it, and the opportunity to experience the Amazon's beautiful sights, sounds, and interesting wildlife was certainly a treat.  The Amazon is big and vast, and contrary to popular belief, it is actually quite difficult to see a ton of wildlife.  Were it not for our knowledgeable and skillful guide, Christian, much of what we saw and experienced in the Amazon could have easily been missed.  Throughout our daytime and evening excursions, Christian was constantly looking for signs of wildlife, carefully listening to all of the jungle sounds, and making his own jungle calls to attract various animals, birds, and reptiles.  We learned a lot during our week-long stay and had a great experience!  

We are now off on our next adventure to explore other areas of Peru, starting with Cusco and then Machu Picchu!